Day 4: Winshields to Banks

The night at the B&B was very comfortable. For the record, and the satisfaction of the group, the bed was big enough that Justin and I never needed to touch during the night. I woke up a few times at night, but was able to go back to sleep. Other than the uncomfortably hard bed, there was no major problem. It was nice to wake up and take a second shower (I had taken one the previous night) before pulling our things together and heading to the campsite for the big group photo. We were also supposed to help pack up the tents while the slower walkers got a head start.

Justin and I walked to the campsite because it was too early for breakfast at the Inn. We helped take down the tents. As I was eating my cornflakes, I realized I didn’t have my camera with me. I asked Dan’s wife, Kerry if she would drive me back to the Inn to see if I had left it on the counter there as I was paying the bill. We went there and after searching for it in my room, I discovered it had slid halfway under the covers on the bed. Luckily the camera was rescued.

Today’s walk also spanned some spectacular vistas. One of the things I think I was a little unprepared for on this trip was the fact that it isn’t just a walk, but for a good part, it is a climb. There are numerous hills and vales that we have to cross. Over many days, we’re spending almost all day climbing slopes (some of which are astonishingly steep) and slowly climbing down the steep slopes on the other side. The amount of miles we cover each day I think grossly misrepresents the effort we put into walking each day. The uphills and downhills are quite taxing. But, we’re often rewarded at the top of hills with incredible views of the English countryside. We also continue to walk along impressively preserved sections of the wall. It is astonishing that so much still remains almost 2000 years after it was built. Today, we passed the ruins of a castle that was built in 1359. The castle was mostly built with stones taken from Hadrian’s Wall. Think of this. In the 14th century (medieval and ancient by almost any standard), people would have considered the wall ancient because it was built almost 1200 years before they existed. To think we can even see a structure that is so old is quite enthralling. And to see so much of it as we walk along is amazing.

In terms of leg injury, my exceptionally painful left foot magically healed itself. I have no explanation. Today, that left foot felt completely pain-free. I could feel the usual twinges in the first hour of walking, but by lunch time, I could feel nothing. I mean absolutely nothing – not even mild discomfort. But then again, it is quite possible that my threshold of pain has changed quite a bit during this walk. In Spinal Tap terms, I think I may have reached 11 on the pain scale. Mild discomfort today may have been described as “unbearable pain” yesterday. Unfortunately, my *right* foot started acting up. I had a blister on my little toe on the right foot and it was hurting quite a bit during the walking today. Basically, every step I took, I was stepping on the blister with the toe right next to the little toe. When I got to our hostel in Banks, I reluctantly peeled off my socks to find that the left foot blisters were raw but not unbearable. However, the bottom of the little toe on the right had swollen to well over twice its size. There was a massive “bubble” at the bottom of the toe that had spread and was under the toe next to it. In true Rambo style, I pulled out my travel sewing kit and prepared to punch a little hole in it to drain the fluid. One of the other people in the room, came to me and suggested that I instead use the nail clippers to cut two large holes in the blister to drain it. He explained that tiny pinpricks would quickly heal and refill, while larger holes would ensure that the wound remained fluid free, His explanation made sense to me and I painfully cut a couple of holes in the blister and drained it. I put some Neosporin on it and bandaged it for a short while (since I had to go to dinner) with the plan of leaving it uncovered during the night so it gets less raw.

Another discovery during this walk is the power of a hot shower. Almost all of us come into our destinations limping and aching all over. I was hurting quite a bit (like everyone else). In addition to the blister, my left knee, hips (where the backpack rests all day), shoulders (the chafing from the shoulder straps), and the left arm (from the effort of using the walking stick), were all aching. However, there’s something magically therapeutic about taking a steaming hot shower and changing into clean clothes. I immediately felt better and headed to the pub across the street for dinner.

After a pint of the local brew (the starting point in any pub), I asked some of my friends along on the walk what the most “English” item on the menu was. I wanted the full experience. They said that the “Cumberland Sausage” was quite a local item and I ordered it along with the “Bread & Butter Pudding.” It was exceptionally good. Despite generally not being fond of sausage, I must say the Cumberland sausage with mashed potatoes and peas was excellent. It was spicy and tasty. It just goes to show the advantages of constantly trying something new with a genuinely open mind. I didn’t even think I would like the sausage, but I was determined to find every single opportunity to try something new and local on the visit. I hate the idea of traveling and eating, say, at MacDonald’s. It really helps to have some locals recommend something because I almost certainly would not have chosen anything called “Cumberland Sausage” and “Bread & Butter Pudding” if I had been on my own, given that the menu had numerous other choices that were unique, but closer to my comfort zone. I had another couple of pints before calling it quits and heading back to the room to type this up.

Tomorrow is another long day of walking that will end in Carlisle – the penultimate stop on our walk. I am encouraged and quite sure I can walk through the blistered feet. I don’t think I’ll ever do this walk again and that makes it a worthwhile experience. There are ways of enjoying Hadrian’s Wall by doing day trips and doing one-day walks along the wall. The walking coast-to-coast is unnecessarily painful and to me, that validates the core reason for doing this – the charity. While it is an unforgettable experience, it is a lot more than a holiday to look at 2000-year-old stones piled up in a few spots. It is a test of endurance and motivation and I’m secretly glad it has not been an easy stroll in the English countryside. I have also managed so far to stick to my personal goal of ending each evening in a pub with some local brews down my throat. They have almost all been tasty and worth the crazy price (about GBP 3 a pint). These folks certainly know how to make a good ale.